Nahanni Moose Ponds Diary
13 July to 3 August, 2001
13 July Day 0
Six of us (Andrew, Lisa, Lew, George, Joe and Paul) arrive at the
Moose Ponds after a 2 hour 15 minute flight. We look about for a camp
site, and find one about 200 meters from our landing site. We set up
camp with a beautiful view of Mount Wilson. It rained in the evening,
and low clouds prevented the other six from arriving. We had a late
supper of corn and soup, with fruit cake for dessert. After a round of
cappuccino, we retired for the evening.
14 July Day 1
We got up at about 7. There was low cloud, so the others could not get
in until this lifted. Before the others got up, Andrew and I saw a
large bull moose swim across the pond, leaving from near where the plane
landed, and crossing to a point directly across from out camp site.
After breakfast, we spent some time paddling and practicing strokes.
In a couple of hours, we heard a plane in the distance, and paddled back
to the camp site. The other six, Adam, Bob, Joyce, Victor, Wendy and
Marilyn arrive. We had a sandwich lunch, with fresh peaches.
At about 3:20, we practiced our paddle strokes again, and learned how to do
the "righting pry." (We also hope we don't need to use it.)
We had supper after a couple more hours, and spent another night under
Mount Wilson.
15 July Day 2
We start down the river today, after breakfast, about 10:00 AM.
We saw a moose in a pond beside the river, swimming. The river has a
gentle gradient, narrow and winding through bog for about 4 km.
We then hit a series of increasingly difficult (but not too difficult)
rapids for a while. We have lunch, and then come to a few more rapids,
more serious and with more water flowing than the previous, but still
not highly technical. Spray skirts are wonderful!
Each canoe has the gear for the paddlers, and two barrels, and one or
two other common items. We get as far as the "thread the Needle" rapids,
which is a wild ride - a narrow entry, big waves, holes, rock avoidance)
Everyone took some water, and we had to bail or dump the canoes afterward.
We camped just below this rapid, on an island at about 5:00 PM.
The camp site was nice and level, but the bathroom facilities were hard to
find. It was a great day of canoeing.
16 July Day 3
We started around 10:00 AM, and got into light rapids immediately. A
number of the heavier ones later required bailing. Notably, we couldn't
identify many of the rapids by name, and did not have much opportunity
to get out and scout.The second last rapid, Hollywood, was the most
dangerous, but not highly technical. It had a large rock with no passage
to the left, and large standing waves. A good line was available on the
right, and we came through dry; an excellent run. Looking back upstream
from the bottom, the channel to the left of the rock was quite
dangerous - a rock strainer. "The Sequel" was a very interesting run,
starting with some rock avoidance, and then passing over a hole, and
some big standing waves on the left. We skirted those on the right, and
had a clear path near the cliff, until a rock jutted out in the channel
creating a jet and some large standing waves. We managed to move to the
left just enough to avoid this rock, and ran through the right side of
the standing waves. We then eddied out into the pool below.
After this, there were a few small rapids, but no major thrills. We
continued to the end of the white water and camped at a point where
another river flowed in, around 5:00 PM. This was the single most
exciting day of paddling we experienced.
17 July Day 4
We started paddling at 10:00 AM. There was no white water, but the river
gradient was steep, and looked to run downhill. We paddled "inside
corners" for safety, to take advantage of the slower water.
The scenery was spectacular, with a different view of the mountains
virtually every paddle stroke. We camped at 5:00 PM by another stream,
Bologna Creek. there was little wildlife, but lots of tracks, moose and
caribou. After supper, about 8:30, three of us, Andrew, Wendy, and I,
went for a short hike (2 hours) over a rise at the back of the camp
ground. The walk afforded an excellent view of part of Bologna Creek.
We saw a small waterfall, and a chute below, but could not get down to
the area, because of a steep, undercut cliff. A plane landed on a lake
on the far side of the Nahanni while we were hiking.
On our return, we had tea, and later turned in.
It was a very warm night. We are rather ahead of schedule (Andrew said
we could be at the falls in 2 days, if we wanted). In the morning, we
will hike, and have a short paddle.
18 July Day 5
When I got up at 7:30 today, Lisa was also up! We had an excellent
breakfast; fritatas, Red River cereal, and rice pudding. After some
discussion, 8 of us decided to hike up the "mountain" behind the camp site,
Bologna Ridge. Bob, Joyce. Lisa, and Adam stayed behind.
Lew and George found a log to place across the small brook we had to
cross, as a precarious bridge. After climbing for about an hour, Joe
and Marilyn branched off to look at the creek we had seen the previous
evening. The remainder kept climbing. We proceeded up to near the tree
line (but were well up on a scree slope, in the area we were climbing).
The view was spectacular. We saw the lakes inside the river where the plane
had landed, and both a cabin and a canoe in the distance. We ate a sandwich
lunch, drank some water, and refilled our water bottles from a container
Andrew had carried. We walked back down, and crossed the log bridge again.
We got back at about 3:00 PM, and saw a couple of kayaks and a canoe go past.
The others left immediately to paddle down to Moore's cabin and to look for
the hot spring, but we took a few minutes to load up the canoes and get
ready. Wendy and I paddled the "kitchen table" (as we had begun to call
Joe's and my canoe) since Joe had left with Marilyn.
We had a sudden shower just before reaching the cabin, which had a number
of paddles with names of previous visitors. We spent some time looking for
the hot spring, without success.
We then continued down river into the area where we could get our first view
of the Cirque of the Unclimbables. At about 7:00 PM,
we camped on an island beside the Vampire Range. We speculated that the
name came from the sharp peaks and the red color of the rocks.
Supper was salad, lasagna, with caramel pudding for dessert.
Altogether it was an excellent day; we had a good hike, saw interesting
scenery as we paddled, and had a spectacular view from our campsite. But
for the brief shower, the weather was excellent.
19 July Day 6
We left our campsite with the spectacular view of the Vampire Range
earlier than usual - about 9:45 AM, after a breakfast of freshly baked
muffins. We canoed, drifting and paddling, past many spectacular peaks,
until about 12:30 when we "rafted up" for lunch. This didn't work out,
so we went ashore and lunched on pasta salad and hummus.
Earlier, we passed two German kayakers, who later passed us, and then
camped near our evening campsite. We also saw the paddlers (two kayaks and
a canoe) who had passed us the previous day. They were camped at the trail
to Glacier Lake, a hiking approach to the Cirque.
We continued drifting and paddling past more spectacular scenery,
the sun blazing down on us, until about 4:50 when we entered the National
Park. We camped on a sandspit beside a clear, flowing stream in full view
of the Rabbitkettle Mountains. We are a short paddle from Rabbitkettle
Lake, and intend to get an early start in the morning to see the tufa
mounds, and to swim in the lake - the water is supposed to be much
warmer than the river. Today was so hot that everyone is really in the
mood for a swim in the morning.
Supper was salad, corn bread, and chili.
20 July Day 7
We got up early, about 6:30, for a breakfast of pancakes. We left our
campsite at about 8:30 to paddle the short distance to Rabbitkettle Lake.
The hike to the tufa mound was scheduled for 8:30; we had thought is was to
be at 9:00, but the warden, Sharon, took us there anyway.
She was staying at the cabin with her fiance, Sean, for 10 days.
The hike to the tufa mound was interesting; we had to cross Rabbitkettle
River by a boat (a scow) tethered to a line. The tufa mound itself was
spectacular, and the warm water pool (perhaps 10-15 m deep) is clearly the
"kettle" in Rabbitkettle. The tufa itself is shell-like, and fragile, and
we walk on it in small groups, barefoot. Along the trail, the mound can be
seen from a distance with the Cirque as a backdrop.
After the visit to the tufa mound, we had a swim in the warm waters of the
lake. It was good to feel clean again. In fact, the day was so hot that
everyone had several swims while waiting for the plane to arrive with
Shelley, and our fresh provisions. The twin Otter arrived at about 3:45 with
the other party, and the plane carrying Shelley and our provisions arrived
about an hour later. We greeted Shelley, said goodbye to Lisa, and after
hugs all around, packed the 3 new barrels of food out the 700 m. to our
canoes, loaded up, and drifted down the river to a new campsite a few km.
away. It, too, was a sandspit, surrounded by mountains, and we had a
leisurely supper of cheese casserole and chocolate cake.
Shelley brought chocolate which she shared. We sat around chatting in the
shade of the tarp for several hours, and turned in about 11:00 PM.
It was one of the hottest days of the trip so far, with continued bright
sun and cloudless skies.
21 July Day 8
We awoke about 7:30, and it was already obvious that it would be another
hot day. We had a slow breakfast (2 pots of coffee) and cinnamon rolls.
There was also the usual assortment of fruit, refreshed by yesterday's
provisions. The cereal course, Cream of Wheat, did not meet with Andrew's
expectations, and was fed to the fish.
After taking down the tents, cleaning up, etc. we departed at 10:20,
leaving another spectacular campsite. We paddled and drifted - mostly
drifted - for a couple of hours, heeding Andrew's warning that it
would be a "slip, slap, slop, and slurp" kind of day.
Shortly before lunch, Shelley notices a moose peering out from the trees.
Victor claimed it was in response to his whistling.
Lunch was bagels, salami, and cream cheese, with cookies and Fig Newtons
for dessert. After lunch, Adam broke out the frisbee, and we played for a
while on the sand. Frisbees don't float well, it seems, and the sun had our
reactions a bit slow.
George reported that the mosquitoes in the woods were fierce, and others
confirmed his observation.
We resumed our paddling and drifting, rafting up for a while and then
drifting again. Victor and Andrew had a diving contest from their
respective ends of the canoe, with backflips and (attempted) handstands.
Some time later, Wendy also took a dive. At about 4:30 we arrived at Flood
Creek, and set up camp. The sand was still a bit damp, and it was obvious
that the area had been flooded until recently. Several of us washed our
clothes, and had a dip of sorts in the creek. (It was no warmer than the
river.) Today rivaled yesterday's temperature, and Adam and Andrew again
rigged a fly for shade.
Victor began fishing, and caught a small greyling which he placed
in a small weir he had previously constructed from stones in a small
rivulet. After admiration from all interested, the fish was released
unharmed. Marilyn requested that Victor catch her breakfast.
Around 10:30 in the evening, the mosquitoes began to attack in earnest, and
we turned in.
In the following morning, the mosquitoes were the worst so far, and Andrew
made a spectacular exit from his tent.
22 July Day 9
Another bright, clear morning. Everyone awoke about 7:30 for an earlier
start than usual. Breakfast was toasted English muffins, with assorted
toppings - peanut butter, honey, and jam. The first pot of coffee was
spilled, but the second was excellent, if a bit rushed. The remnants were
placed in a thermos, and provided a bit of a treat later in the day.
We paddled and drifted from about 9:30 to 12:30, then rafted up for lunch.
Shelley spotted a bear, and later in the day we saw a young bald eagle in a
nest, and near our evening campsite there was an adult bald eagle.
We camped in an oxbow lake about 10 km above the falls, in a beautiful
meadow with a small, clear stream nearby. the lake was warm enough for
comfortable swimming, and everyone had a dip.
There were no flies in the evening, and it was a very pleasant campsite.
We stayed up until midnight to watch a spectacular sunset, the clouds
growing redder and redder until those directly overhead were glowing.
For a while, the distant mountains in the East were illuminated with a red
glow. We turned in around midnight.
23 July Day 10
We had strawberry pancakes for breakfast, and it looked like it would be
another hot day. We left camp a bit late, and paddled the short distance to
Virginia Falls. The bald eagle was back in its perch on a tree in the oxbow
lake, and posed for photographs.
We continued the short paddle to Virginia Falls, and found campsites (and
toilet facilities!), and proceeded to claim our campsites. The food was
placed on elevated ramps, to discourage bears. Most of us opted then for a
short hike, to Meringo Falls. Wendy navigated with map and compass, a trip
of about 1.5 hours through light brush. The falls were impressive, carving
a small, deep canyon in the valley. We spotted a few fish in the river, and
Victor fed some bread to them and they rose once or twice.
Several people had a dip in the water under the falls, and we all had a
picnic lunch. Wendy then navigated directly back to our camp site, by dead
reckoning. We had a supper of bean dip and spaghetti, and then had a quick
look at Virginia Falls and the Sluicebox Rapids, and, after a speedy return
led by Joe, went to a lecture by one of the park interpreters.
He was a DE Cho Dene, and talked about their history and about his
experiences growing up while living off the land. He served Labrador tea,
which was nice, and his talk was rather political.
After this, we retired early.
24 July Day 11
We had intended to get up early and hike up Sunblood Mountain, but it
rained during the night, so we didn't get up until about 8:30.
We had a breakfast of cinnamon rolls and coffee, and 7 of us, Joe, Lew,
George, Wendy, Andrew, Adam, and Paul, packed a lunch to climb Sunblood.
We set out at about 10:20 AM, with orders not to return until about 5:00.
(The remaining paddlers were going to cook supper.)
After paddling across the river and hiking for about half an hour, Andrew and
Lew broke away from the rest and made it to the top in a total time of
about 1 hour 45 minutes. George and Adam took about 2 hours 15 minutes, and
Wendy, Joe, and I about 2:30.
We wandered around the top for an hour or so, and saw three Dahl sheep. We
also saw a pica and an arctic ground squirrel. We had a picnic lunch of
cheese, salami, tortias, gorp, nuts, etc. We could not get a good view of
the river or our campsite from the top, because it was too foggy. We did
have a clear view at times on the way up, and again on the way back down.
In fact, we were able to see the entrance to and exit from Fourth Canyon.
The hike down was actually more difficult than the hike up; somehow the
trail seemed steeper and slipperier. At the bottom, we then followed a trail
along the left side of the river for a view of the Sluicebox the
Falls. The view was quite different than that from the other side.
While we were there, we saw a helicopter fly up the river valley, below our
vantage point. Also, we could see that the others had carried a canoe and
two barrels across the portage.
When we returned across the river to our campsite, we found the others
preparing supper. We had tortias with rice, beans, and a spicy tomato
vegetable sauce. Dessert was brownies, and it was all quite good.
After dinner, the park ranger gave us a short talk on the geology of the
area. She was rewarded with a brownie (and agreed to mail a letter for
Adam.) After this, we met Lisa's group, and were pleased to see her again.
It rained after supper, but it was no problem because we were already set
up from the previous day. Someone suggested a card game (Euchre), and Adam,
Andrew, and Wendy offered to teach me to play. Andrew and I
crucified Wendy and Adam in a game - we beat them 3 to 1.
We turned in around 11:00.
25 July Day 12
We arose about 8:30 again. Breakfast was Red River cereal and toasted
English muffins. Victor was the first up, and made coffee. We had some
rain, bit it cleared, off and on. Tarps are wonderful!
We portaged our gear in approximately 1.5 hours, with almost everyone
making two trips. We then started down Fourth Canyon by dragging the canoes
part way up the river, and then front ferrying to river left immediately.
We avoided the rapids - really only large standing waves - by ferrying back
and forth across the river to negotiate turns on the inside, far from the
canyon walls. It was an interesting, and fast, run; we covered 7.5km. in
about 18 minutes.
We stopped for lunch at Meringo Creek, and had another picnic style lunch.
We then had another short (in time) paddle to Clearwater Brook, where we
camped on a sandbar island. There were no flies, but we had heavy rain
after the tents were set up. We all waited it out under the tarp.
Supper was lasagna and salad, and both were quite good. After the household
chores were completed, Andrew and Wendy demolished George and myself in
Euchre 10 - 7 and 10 - 2.
We decided on an early evening, so after hot chocolate with Baileys,
(complements of Wendy), we all turned in. The evening turned fine,
and some of our things dried out.
26 July Day 13
We slept late again today, until about 8:00 AM. We then had a leisurely
breakfast of bacon and muffins. We got away about 10:40, and proceeded to
the figure 8 rapids. Andrew and Adam decided that four boats would run it as
one set, and that they would return as stern paddlers for the other two
boats - Bob' and Joyce's, and Joe's and mine.
The first four ran successfully, with Lew and George crossing the eddy line
early, and sitting on a boil for a few moments before they could get the
canoe going again.
Wendy and Marilyn followed a similar line but missed the boil and came
through easily. Adam and Joyce skirted the left edge of the big waves all
the way down, and had a good run, as did Andrew and Victor. Andrew and Paul
ran next, and dumped in the last of the big waves. The swim and rescue were
interesting; Paul drifted down by the wall and swam into an eddy - not a
very stable one - and was picked up by Adam and Lew, and carried on their
deck as they raced after the canoe. The canoe was rescued by attaching a
throw line to it (actually, a string of 3 lines) and paddling hard for
shore where we got anchored to something solid and the canoe swung in.
It had drifted a total of about 1 km.
Both the rescue and rescued canoes were left there on shore, and we all
walked back up river to the others. Both Andrew and I each lost a paddle.
Andrew decided to try again, this time with Bob, and to take the canoe
further up the river to where the earlier (successful) runs had started,
to get a bit further to the left before hitting the waves.
(We had just ferried out from the top of the eddy.)
They also dumped, in exactly the same place. This time, rescue was quicker
because Andrew attached a throw line to the boat (and stuffed his paddle
inside as well.) Bob swam to the top of the eddy and got up on the rocks,
and was rescued by Adam and Wendy. With all boats now below the rapid, and
2 exciting rescues, we had lunch. It was quick, and with what was on hand.
Andrew had made Logan bread the previous evening, and that was the major
component of lunch. It was delicious.
The four canoes then paddled the four paddlers from the two canoes
down-river down to their canoes in the next eddy, as deck baggage.
Joe went with Lew and George, and Paul went with Wendy and Marilyn.
We then paddled down-river to just past Mary River, where we set up camp.
On the way, we had a bit of heavy rain, but the weather cleared and we had
an excellent evening. We played Euchre before supper, and Wendy and Adam
beat Andrew and Paul. Supper was rice, cornbread, and chili, with
cheesecake for dessert. After tea, we sat around and chatted in little
groups, and turned in about 11:30 after watching the sun set. The moon was
visible as a half moon, although it was still a bright evening.
27 July Day 14
We arose about 8:30 or 9:00 after a night of rain.
Breakfast was pancakes and cereal, with coffee as usual. We got a slow
start on the river, leaving about 11:00 AM, to paddle to Pulpit Rock.
After we arrived, we hiked to the top, following a well worn trail.
The view was spectacular. On our return, it started to rain. We ate lunch,
a salmon salad with soda bread, in the little camping area around the
base. We then left in the rain, and paddled another couple of hours to our
next camp site at the other end of Third Canyon and the end of the Funeral
Range, and the beginning of the Headless Range. The scenery in the canyon
was spectacular, and we had time to look around. From the gateway by
Pulpit Rock to our campsite we were surrounded by high, sharp mountain
cliffs and could see many spires, caves, etc. The rain prevented us from
taking many pictures, but the view was amazing.
We camped on a gravel bar, as usual, and the rain stopped in time for us to
put up tents and get supper. Several of us - Lew, Joe, Wendy, Adam,
Andrew, and Paul, scrambled up the hill at the back of the campsite to a
cliff overlooking the campsite and providing a view of the "big bend"
further down the river, approximately 1 km. away. We also had a view of the
start of Second Canyon.
After returning, we put the kettle on and had cocoa or cappuccino, or a
mixture of both. We turned in at about 11:00.
28 July Day 15
We again left late, about 11:30, after a breakfast of cinnamon rolls and
coffee. We paddled into Second Canyon, and paddled and drifted to Prairie
Creek, where we were to camp for two nights. I taught Andrew, Adam, and
Wendy to play 120's (pronounced "hundred 'n twenties") with considerable help
from George and Lew. Adam and I played as partners against Wendy and
Andrew. After a late evening, with several cups of tea, the score was 1 to
1. We turned in about 11:30.
29 July Day 16
We got up at about 8:30 and had a breakfast of pancakes with real maple
syrup. We got ready for a hike up Prairie Creek. It was an interesting
walk; the creek has to be crossed several times, and the current is strong,
and cold. The hike takes us over a "silt plug" which changed the course of
the creek some time ago. It is heavily wooded, but the trail is clear. a
short side hike brings you to a peak from which much more of the creek
can be viewed. The approach to the trail over the silt plug requires one
crossing of the creek. We had lunch on the far side of the plug, and some
of us later continued further up the creek. At the next crossing, Joe was
swept off his feet, and Lew, George, Andrew, Wendy, and Paul continued.
Lew and George climbed to a height above the creek, and Andrew, Wendy, and
Paul continued up the creek, crossing it several more times. On the way
back, we walked through the little canyon beside the silt plug which we
had hiked around earlier. (The current was too strong to wade upstream.)
After returning, we again played 120's, and Andrew and Wendy won.
We had as supper of tortias, refried beans, and a spicy tomato mixture,
with rice. Wendy made brownies for dessert, and Adam made soda bread for
lunch the next day. It rained heavily for about half an hour (while we were
playing cards) but the tarp protected us well. We discussed how we would
spend the next few days, without consensus, and turned in at about 10:30.
30 July Day 17
This was our second morning at Prairie Creek. We had a breakfast of rice
pudding, Ryevita crackers, jam, peanut butter, and honey. Some of us
dressed in neoprene again, and left at about 10:30 to paddle to Lafferty's
Creek. After about 1 km, we came to George's Riffle (Cache Rapids).
Wendy and Marilyn went ahead to take pictures and a video, and Adam and
Shelley made a spectacular run through the center of the riffle, with the
canoe shooting into the air from some of the big waves.
Everyone else paddled on the left side of the riffle, edging the large waves.
It was still an interesting run, because you could edge out as far as you
liked and have an interesting ride.
After everyone successfully traversed this rapid, the paddle to Lafferty's
Creek was through the spectacular scenery of First Canyon. We spent much of
this time rafted up.
A small black bear was spotted on river left, and we stopped to fill
several barrels with water at White Spray spring.
After arriving at Lafferty's, we had lunch.
It was soda bread, cheese, sausage, cream cheese, etc. with granola bars,
etc. for dessert.
After lunch, we took a hike up the creek bed, and found an interesting
trail through the woods.
Victor and Marilyn hiked up to a cave in the wall of the canyon, and we
spotted a number of greyling in the pools in the brook.
Our camp site was right under the "sheep cave" but there was no obvious
approach to it.
Supper was spaghetti with Tabouli salad. Dessert was brownies. The evening
was quite warm, after a very warm day. Wendy, Adam, Andrew and Paul had
another game of 120's, with Andrew and Paul victorious. We turned in about
10:30, after watching a motor boat, likely from Nahanni Butte, travel
upriver.
31 July Day 18
We left the campsite at Lafferty's at about 10:15, intending to eat
breakfast at Kraus Hot Springs, a few km. down the river. We had coffee
before leaving, and were bringing freshly made cinnamon rolls for
breakfast. We all ran Lafferty's Riffle just to the left of center, for a
last run on the large waves. Adam and Shelley paddled down first to
photograph us all, with Shelley doing the video. It was a nice run; the last
real rapid on the river.
Shortly after, we came to Kraus Hot Springs, where we looked at the
paddles in the cabin, and left ours, carved by Lew, there. We then got into
the spring, and ate our cinnamon rolls, had coffee and a floating fruit
plate, and soaked. The hydrogen sulphide smell was not bad, and we stayed
in the 38 - 39 degree water for about an hour.
It was after noon when we left, and we paddled for a couple of hours before
pulling over for a lunch of soda bread (decorated with a paddle, by Adam),
sausage, and cheese. We also had gorp.
After lunch, we paddled for another couple of hours, and camped on a gravel
bar about 3/4 of the way through the flats.
Supper was fettuccini alfredo (with feta cheese added) and a caramel
upside-down pudding was dessert. It rained sporadically in the evening, and
there were a few flies.
After dinner we played 120's again, this time the 5 person version (called
railroad, or cutthroat). Lew, George, Adam, Wendy, and Paul played, and
Wendy won. We turned in at about 10:00 because the wind died down, and the
mosquitoes became fierce.
1 Aug. Day 19
We left the gravel bar at the flats at about 9:00 - the mosquitoes were
fierce. In fact, we didn't have breakfast because we didn't want to be
breakfast for the little demons. Shortly after we set out, we rafted up,
broke out the Coleman stove, and made coffee, and fried bacon. Adam did the
coffee spin. We also had Logan bread, with honey, peanut butter, jam, etc.
It was good to avoid the flies, and the current was drifting us along at
about 4 km. per hour, so we covered some distance as we ate.
After breakfast, we had a short paddle to Nahanni Butte, where we visited
the general store (and a flush toilet!). There was no ice cream, but we all
had cokes (actually, Pepsi). Victor and George had another breakfast of
bacon and eggs, and others had chips and coffee.
Andrew and Adam bought some provisions for breakfast the next day.
We then left Nahanni Butte and paddled for a few minutes, then rafted up
and drifted into the Liard River. At the crossing, we all "touched paddles"
over the canoes. The Liard is even more silty than the Nahanni, and we
were happy to have the water from Clear Spring.
We also rafted up for lunch, with Logan bread, cream cheese, etc. and then
paddled for a while to Swan point. Here we shared the area with 6 or 7
buffalo, including a buffalo calf. There were no flies initially, although
they did find us later in the evening for a short while.
We cooked our last supper together on the river - a chicken stir fry and a
vegetarian stir fry. Later we played cutthroat, and Wendy won again, this
time taken out by Adam on a 30 for 60 bid. We then sat around talking, and
the wind came up and took away the flies. The wind continued to rise, and
we has to make sure the tents were well staked. It rained a bit after we
were in bed, but the wind had the tents completely dry in the morning.
2 Aug. Day 20
We got up at about 8, and the light breeze was just enough to keep the
flies away. Lew reported that they were fierce in the woods. We had a slow
breakfast of scrambled eggs, bacon, and coffee. Wood was damp and scarce,
but we did get a good fire going and the cooking was done over it.
The buffalo were gone, and we didn't see any of the Trumpeter Swans for
which the point was named. We departed at about 11:00 for Blackstone
Landing, and again ate lunch rafted up. The current was not as strong, but
we did cover some distance.
We arrived at Blackstone Landing at about 2:00 PM, and looked around for
about 1.5 hours. We admired the showers, but nobody ventured into one.
We left for the short paddle to Lindberg's at about 4:00, and arrived at
about 4:15. We then unloaded the canoes, separated the gear, and got our
cabins. Lew, George, Joe, and I shared the 4 bed cabin, Victor and Shelley,
Bob and Joyce got the "honeymoon suite", with 2 double beds, and Wendy and
Marilyn shared the cabin with 2 single beds.
Andrew and Adam shared another cabin.
Since it was Joyce's birthday, we all got together in the dining area
(cabin) and sang Happy Birthday. There were lots of balloons, and Andrew
and Marilyn played the piano.
Supper was meatloaf of moose and caribou, with garden salad from Sue
Lindberg's garden. There was turnip with nutmeg, and potato salad as well.
The food was excellent. After dinner, we chatted for a while, and retired
at about 11:30.
3 Aug. Day 21
We got up at about 7:30, and went over to buy some books and T-shirts.
Breakfast was at 9, and coffee, etc. was made on an outside fire. The
Lindberg's dog, Gypsy, wanted to play with a stick, so we threw it a few
times until she lost it, and then we went in for breakfast - fresh boiled
eggs, coffee, etc. (The rooster had woken us earlier.)
We then loaded the canoes and gear onto a trailer, and took the taxi (van)
back to Fort Simpson, about 180 km. away. The trip lasted about 2 hours,
and we had to take a ferry across the Liard River.
After reaching Fort Simpson, we unloaded the trailer and gear, and went off
to lunch. After lunch, we went to the airport, and Lew and George were able
to get a flight out. Adam had been scheduled for a flight the next day, but
found that there was no such flight. He ran back, packed, and also made the
flight to Yellowknife with us.
Lew and George were also able to get a flight to Edmonton from Yellowknife,
and stayed with George and me that evening. We had ice cream and hot wings
at the hotel. The next day, Joe went to the airport at about 6:00 AM, and
Lew, George, and I went a bit later. We all caught an earlier (for Lew and
George, 3 days earlier) flight (8:10) to Toronto, and again made an earlier
connection from Toronto to St. John's, arriving home at about 11:00 PM.